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‘Ndurciullune

‘Ndurciullune pasta

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This pasta is typical of the the area between Cupello and Lanciano, a district crossed by the old Tratturo Magno  sheep track connecting L’Aquila and Foggia.
It is fresh, handmade pasta made from durum wheat semolina and soft wheat flour, opaque ivory in colour and cut  into long, square-section spaghetti.
The dough is made by adding water and salt in the proportion of 40-50% to a mixture composed of 70% semolina and 30% flour. After mixing and kneading, the dough is covered with a clean cloth and allowed to rest for about 20
minutes, before kneading again and allowing to rest for a further 10 minutes.
It is then rolled into a sheet about 4-6mm thick, using a rolling pin. The ’ndurciullune is then cut with the “chitarra” (or “carraturo”), a wooden frame stretched with steel wire: the pasta is laid over the wires and then rolled heavily with a rolling pin, so that the slender parallel steel threads slice the “spaghetti” to a 4 x 6mm rectangular square and about 50cm in length. 
’Ndurciullune pasta is best served with a sauce made from mutton or lamb (used to make rolls stuffed with herbs, garlic and parsley, belly pork or lard), chopped tomatoes, extra virgin olive oil and various herbs. 
This dish is the result of the fusion of the peasant and sheep-farming civilisations, which occurred during  transhumance (the last of which dates back to 1961), combining the most widely used raw materials of both cultures.
There is no doubt that the recipe dates back much further than 25 years and has been handed down by word of mouth amongst older country folk.

L.T. 21-01-2021

 

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